I left off with us on the train and I am writing this almost ten days later. I meant to write an update every day, but, never having done it before, I underestimated the exhaustion that a 22 kilometer walk can cause you to experience.
Where do I begin? The taxi was waiting for us in Ourense and we made it to Sarria around 8.00 p.m. The lady at the reception was super sweet and helped us very quickly, gave us tips on where to eat dinner and also set up the baggage transport we had asked for. Our baggage would be moved to each hotel we were staying in, ahead of us. We ate empanadas and then churros with hot chocolate( our first taste of heaven, but not the best of the lot), something Vincent had asked us to do and went back to the hotel.
We had no clue about what we had to do the next day. From what Vincent had told us, I assumed that we pack light and stock up on water and any other absolutely essential stuff and walk. We went off to bed, sore and tired but sort of worked up and so basically didn't sleep too much. Thoughts ricocheting in our minds about how things would go, mingled with an impatience to start the journey. We had decided to start walking at 6.30 a.m and we had already bathed and laid out our clothes.
So we woke up after barely having slept at all and got ready, dragged our suitcases downstairs left them in the allocated space for pick up and walked out into the darkness. And dark it was! Pitch dark . My headlamp was of great help and we gradually started seeing people with backpacks and walking sticks and knew we were on the right track. Phone in hand( Google maps), we walked. Not too fast, not too slow. Chatting away and noticing our hearts starting to thump a bit. The backpack felt heavy..and the shoes seem to pinch. The silence surrounding us was eerie and comforting in some way. The sky started to pinken in an hour and the road became more visible. More pilgrims visible now and our curiosity was piqued. Were they walking the 114 miles like us or even farther?
The first cafe came up in slightly over an hour and we stopped only to stamp our passport. And we were the first to walk out. No one ahead of us and no one within eyesight behind us. Google was guiding us and we resumed our walk. We were walking through oaken forests and the sky waa taking on a beautiful glow when, about a half hour into our walk, we noticed that there were absolutely no pilgrims to be seen..we stopped in our tracks and looked around us. No pilgrims, and it began to dawn on us that we were lost and not on the Camino any more Looking it up on Google, it dawned on us that we had followed it a little too sincerely and it had led us astray. Google was about the absolute shortest route, not the holy one. Luckily I had a Camino app that let me see where we were. So we were able to walk a couple of smaller roads and rejoin the Camino. Phew!!
From then on, we made sure we were following another pilgrim, or had one in our sight either behind us or before us.
Our first breakfast break was around 10.00 a.m in a cafe jam packed with pilgrims and we had our first taste of 'othering'
I guess there weren't too many Indian ladies on the Camino. And it never crossed people's minds that we could be from anywhere else. I was asked how I was going to pay for the food- rupees? I had to, in my broken Spanish, explain that I was from the US and that I would be paying in dollars. Ah, the horror!!
And we soldiered on. Kilometer after kilometer. Our calves started to hurt, our feet started to hurt and we still had a few kilometers to go. Thirst was a constant and we drank so much water ans still the thirst wasn't slaked. The realization hit me ( not sure about my two fellow pilgrims) that we had to do this over and over again for 5 more days. No breaks, no long rests except our sleep at night. No excuses. No dilly dallying. And some of the upslopes almost killed us. We panted our way up the slope and felt faint with exhaustion.
And finally, we spied Portomarin, our first halt on the Camino. Vincent had mentioned a steep set of stairs to enter the town, but neglected to mention that the last kilometer involved a downslope of rock hewn uneven steps that felt like you would tip over any minute and break more than a couple of teeth into the bargain.
Luckily a young girl explained to us that we might as well sit on each step and shimmy down. And it worked!
We finally made it to Portomarin and dragged ourselves into the hotel we had booked. The luggage had gotten there ahead of us.The town was charming, and the church was literally steps away from where we stayed. After the first meal of our walk, where we sat down and ate croquettes and padron peppers and squid and chicken ..I attended the pilgrim mass and we went off to lay in bed and recuperate, knowing full well that we would have to get up and do it all over again. And the next day was our longest day with 24 kilometers to be walked.
Three ladies, one bathroom- need I say more? We decided that we would all bathe at night, pack our bags for the next day and only do the what needed to be done in the morning, so we could just start walking.
And off to bed we went. Happy that we had taken our first steps.
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. Ours did too. In fact our first day , we clocked more than 30,000 steps. And we knew we had many more to take.