Day 5 dawned bright and sunny. And we were feeling high because we had rested pretty well and we just had to march downstairs to resume our walk.
We brewed some coffee and ate some croissants and pocketed some of the fruits for later, dragged our luggage downstairs for pickup and walked out the door.
It was dark as usual and we took off with our usual enthusiasm. There were walkers already on the Camino and soon we fell in step. This time our steps were more determined because the end was almost in sight. One more day amd we'd be done.
Oh, the beautiful sunrises we saw everyday..usually we were more than an hour into our walk when the sun rose. And so we were treated to glorious sunrises every day. And in this age of phones having excellent cameras, we were able to save these memories for later. I was just mentioning making a photobook to my Camino sister and she said she had thought of the same thing! So I have work to do once I getting back home.
And one of my personal favorite breakfast dishes, something I will recreate once I get home- grated tomatoes and olive oil on toast. The simplicity of the dish is misleading. The flavor is a explosion in your mouth, the moist tomato cutting the crispness of the toast and the olive oil adding a depth to the whole thing. A pinch of salt and you are in heaven. I'm thinking grating raw garlic on crisp toast will add another dimension to the toast.
The Eucalyptus trees were still around and we still managed to crush and inhale the fragrance. But the one annoying thing that assailed our senses was the smell of dung. Cow dung I am assuming. It was..different. Not pleasant. Lingering and making you want to plug your nose. And it never faded to the back ground. Persistent and malodorous. But hey, all things good or bad come to an end right? And it was fertile farmland we were traversing. So the odor was to be expected.
The languages we heard spoken around us was interesting. Spanish seemed the most spoken, but French and German were also heard often. A lot of American English too. Funnily our looks weren't exactly of English speakers and we spoke to each other in Thamizh, so I guess too many people assumed we weren't proficient in any other language. Well, whatever. We did have people talk to us, but not that many that we were inundated with conversation.
And our legs were sending us urgent messages! My sandals was heaven sent but it couldn't support my upper feet. So it ached..a lot. But then resting it in the night gave me some relief and obviously the pain started up within a few kilometers of walking. We joked that a bath tub with hot water and epsom salts to soak our feet in would be a dream come true..but that is what it remained - a dream. Spanish bathrooms have no tubs, just walk-in showers. So our sore legs had to wait. We never saw a tub until the end.
It was a pilgrimage in its own way, but it also showed us our limitations and our powers. People much older than us were walkung, seemingly with ease. Maybe they had more practice at it. But we had always been open about our aches and pains and our prescription medications, but here were, day 5 of our 6 day walk, none the worse for wear. At no moment in these few days had we reconsidered our trip or suffered so much as to even think about backing out. I'm sure we each had our own struggles..but we persisted. Resilience. That I think is the key and we had all, we later learnt, worried about what we would do if one of us was, for any reason, not able to continue. Each of us, independently had decided we would convince the other two to go without them. But by God's grace, that need never materialized.
And we plodded on. Any small church, we peeped in. Some looked so old and desolate..but still had altars and of course the coveted stamp.We got the stamp anywhere there was one. There were small stalls along the way, where, for a payment one could get a fancy stamp. We tried it once with our star sign as a stamp and then gave up. We almost filled our passport and I jokingly said my husband doing the entire Camino Frances, introvert that he is, probably didn't get as many. He probably went with the requisite two, not more, not less. Checked with him and I was right! Gotta go home and see it for myself.
Our penultimate destination was O'Pedruozo. And Vincent cajoled me into checking out a Panaderia in a little place about a kilometer off the track. We dutifully walked there, only to find it closed...most villages we walked through were tiny hamlets and agriculture was the main business I'm assuming. So there was no 9 to 5 office to go to. Hence the lazy like Sunday morning feeling all the way.
About three kilometers before O'Pedruozo, there was a stamping place where a local man asked us where we were from. When we said India, his first question was if we spoke Thamizh! And that, was karma. The fact that we spoke to each other in thamizh seemd to throw fellow pilgrims off, but here was a native who, of his own volition asked us if we spoke thamizh! We were floored! He explained that they had two priests who were from our neck of the woods in India,who served that parish. Unfortunately both were out of town. We would have loved to meet them!
We finally walked into O'Pedruozo, only to find that the hotel opened only at 1.00 p.m and we were almost 40 minutes early. We found a restaurant close enough but were told that they opened for lunch at 1.00 p.m too. Dang!! Being punished for being early! We sat at the table with fresh squeezed orange juice in hand and suddenly the waiter announced that they were open for lunch. And the only thing they had was the the Menu de dia- the set lunch of the day. Which had no vegetarian options. Smarter people would have walked out, but tired as we were,we stayed. Our vegetarian friend graciously sat on and watched the two of us eat an excellent lunch- excellent soup and fish and barbecued ribs for a main course. Ice cream and cheesecake for dessert. And we made it to the hotel where the receptionist was very sweet and saw us to our room. And there was a surprise- our bathroom, was outside the room,.like entirely outside, in a corridor shared by two other rooms. The bathroom was just ours. But we had to open our room and walk to the corridor and open the bathroom to use it. Weird!!
By now, we were really excited! Just one more day to go. We wandered out in the evening and ate our favorite churros with chocolate, with the waiter gently advising us not to get three of the combination because that would mean 30 churros and 3 cups of chocolate!
I left the ladies at the churro place and went off to mass at local church and then walked back to the hotel. The ladies, meanwhile had done some clothes shopping and settled in for the night. The big day was tomorrow and we were thrilled. The cathedral danced before our eyes. The only hitch was that the weather forecast for the day showed rain with some wind mixed in for good measure. We had somehow skirted the rain and our ponchos were safe and sound in their original packaging. Hopefully we wouldn't need to use it?
That's for tomorrow..because, like they say, tomorrow is another day.